Shirakabegura Tokubetsu Junmai

If you want a clean snapshot of Nada-style sake, Shirakabegura's Tokubetsu Junmai is a fair place to start. Takara Shuzo polishes Gohyakumangoku rice down to 60% and ferments it slowly, landing on a smooth, complex Junmai (SMV +2, 15% ABV) that shifts noticeably with temperature — warm it and you'll find white mushroom, bran, and umami; serve it cool and pear and green apple take over. It picked up a Silver Award at the 2011 U.S. National Sake Appraisal, and it's the kind of bottle that rewards trying both ways before settling on a favorite.